We travelled for thirteen and a half hours today across two time zones !
We had arranged a taxi pick up from our hotel in Kota Bharu for half five. Thankfully it was waiting because we weren't sad to be leaving, though we did sleep better than we expected.
We got to the Malaysia side of the border at Rantau Panjang at ten past six and that was straightforward because we are leaving.
In Europe I think we forget about the logistics of land borders. There is quite a distance between leaving one country and entering another.
There were more forms to fill in on entering Thailand at Sungai Kolok but it was stress free, then the walk to the station.
We had gained an hour by entering Thailand and there were no taxis. In fact we did not see a Westerner or hear English spoken (except between ourselves) until we got to Had Yao.
There was a queue for tickets and our two to Phattalung, 223 miles North West, cost 112TB (that's about £2.20). The train departed on time but was delayed, this time by approximately two hours. Sue and I were quite the curiosity item on the train. I don't think hardly anyone comes into the 'land of smiles' through the back door. We eventually arrived at just after 3pm. That's a 8.5 hour journey on hard wooden seats at an average speed of 26.25mph, it's was hardly the bullet train. It is a wonderful experience with food and drink being sold, it's a bit like being in a mobile village market.
Phattalung arrived and luckily we got a truck to take us to the bus station and found a busy local transport hub there. We got a minivan to Trang, 35 miles west away for just 180TB (£3.65) about five minutes after our arrival which was fortunate.
On reaching the Trang bus station it was a further 160TB to Had Yao Ferry Port.
We had to wait about twenty minutes for that connection but when we arrived in our little beach house (with very hard bed) at just after 6pm (13.5 hours later because of the hour we gained) we both felt as if we had been very lucky with our connections. There was a reasonable army presence, with assault rifles, on the train until we got out of Songkala province.
It was three years ago today that a bomb was detonated at the Lee Gardens Plaza Hotel in Hat Yai killing 3 people and injuring around 400.
There is an ethnic Malay Muslim insurgency in the southern states of predominantly Buddhist Thailand and this 'forgotten conflict' has been raging for over a decade. Over 5,500 people have been killed and Thailand maintain an armed presence there.
OK, within minutes of our arrival at Had Yao the heavens opened but at least the Andaman sea was warm.
Ko Lanta tomorrow.
Tuesday, 31 March 2015
Trang's for the memories
Monday, 30 March 2015
New Castle
Today was a good travel day but it ended with a 'different' type of hotel room to those we have grown accustomed to on our travels.
Firstly we has to get across the mighty Temberling river at Kuala Tehan at half seven to catch the coach to Jerantut at eight.
The day remained cloudy throughout, interspersed with almighty downpours.
We got to Kuala Besut at around 4pm and the driver offered to take us directly to our hotel in Kota Bharu 24 miles away for (eventually) 40 MR which is £8, so we agreed and we were at our hotel by 5:30 thanks to the rush hour. Kota Bharu means New Castle and coincidentally lies in the North East of Peninsular Malaysia. One of their unique local delicacies is known as Murtabak (flat bread filled with anything from meat to bananas) which strangely enough sounds exactly like a Geordie saying Motorbike.
The Kota Bharan 'Tyne' is the Kelantan but there was no fog on it today.
Anyhow, tonight is our last night in Malaysia. Tomorrow morning we head for the border and a train journey to Phattalung before making our way to the Andaman Sea and the tiny port town of Haad Yao.
Wish us luck. Tomorrow we need lots of it.
Sunday, 29 March 2015
Tomorrow's plan
The next two days present us with extensive travel, especially on Tuesday when we have to make our way from Kota Bharu to the Thai border at Ranjang Pantau/Sungai Kolok. Get a train to Phattalung at six thirty in the morning Thai time (Thailand is one hour behind Malaysia), get a bus from Phattalung to Trang then a taxi to Had Yao (Not Hat Yai as everyone wrongly 'corrects' us).
There may not be Internet now so hopefully we will both be alive and blogging next time you read from us.
Thank you for enjoying our posts, we are having a wonderful time here in South East Asia. There is the fattest Tapir here, I will desperately attempt to ride it and get Sue to photograph the hilarious scene that ensues.
Rainforest Riverboat
After saying goodbye to our wonderful view in KL we ventured North West to Kuala Tembeling, a journey of three hours by minibus into the state of Pehang. This was followed by a three hour boat trip to Kuala Tahan up the Tembeling river. It grounded due to the low water level and a myself and another chap helped to free the boat into deeper water.
We are now in the Taman Negara rainforest and it's extremely humid and very hot.
Yesterday we went on a 'night safari' looking for insects and found various scorpion, stick insects and huge spiders (Sue loved this part of the holiday !)
Today we went on a jungle trek to Bukit Teresek (and saw a Malay Pit Viper - see picture) to get a great view of Gunung Tahan the highest mountain on Peninsular Malaysia. We then traversed the canopy walkway (Sue - once again - all over it !).
In the afternoon we shot the rapids and got absolutely soaked and finished off practicing blow pipe techniques and making fire in an Orang Asili village.
The Orang Asili are the original inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula.
We are now sipping cocktails on the riverbank in failing light, listening to the cacophony of sound from the jungle around us. (Pete.)
From my point of view ... boat trips - so much fun; spider hunting - not so much; walking across the rain forest at about 100 metres up - definitely not fun. However, being better than Pete at using the blow pipe - best fun of all! Those of you reading this who know me will know how seriously I take hitting any target I'm aiming at!!
I would recommend the Taman Negara and the Mutiara Hotel in particular. If you have any questions regarding clothing, facilities etc please ask. (Sue)
Friday, 27 March 2015
Dancing on the streets of Vilnius !
Revolution
Obviously, if you are upgraded to enable you to take breakfast on the top floor with a stellar view of one of the world's great cities you take it. That's what we did before venturing out to the Batu Caves (and Sue says they are not all that) via the KL metro. It was a quick visit because for the first time in my travelling life I wanted to get back to the hotel pool.
Sue and I met two lads who work for Mercedes and who had the day off. The F1 circus is in town and the hotel is full of petrol heads as the Grand Prix is on Sunday.
After the pool we headed off to the KL Tower (no point going to the Petronas Towers for obvious reasons) for dinner at the revolving restaurant and wow!! what a view. KL is truly a 360° city bound by neither tall mountain or coast, unlike most of the world's leading cities.
Therefore if you are seeking one ninety minute revolution of a city over dinner then I recommend the city to be Kuala Lumpur.
I'm writing today's blog gazing out at the Petronas Towers and I can't tire of it. I'm feeling tired now. Jungle tomorrow my fellow without a netters.
Where are the comments - come on in the words of Delia Smith "let's be 'aving you".
Thursday, 26 March 2015
Third Capital City
Manaf, our Terendak taxi driver took us to the station and we boarded the 4pm coach to Kuala Lumpur. We were both sorry to leave the Majestic and Melaka and I think Sue really enjoyed coming to the place of her birth.
Moving ever onwards we now ventured North and we will journey Northwards until we get back to Bangkok in three weeks time. We got to the coach station at KL two and a half hours later and had to haul our rucksacks onto the packed monorail carriages (only two carriages per train) before arriving at the Renaissance Hotel. The staff generously upgraded us to the 'Lifestyle lounge' on the 24th and highest floor with a fantastic view of the Petronas Towers. We went out for street food in Jalan Alor (why is it not pedestrianised), then returned to our room to take the picture below.
Wednesday, 25 March 2015
We are tourists
Is this the most 'we are tourists' thing you have ever seen ?. Sue and I on a Melakan Trishaw with a classically understated 'Spiderman' theme.
Reticulated Python
We have just got back from a wonderful four hour cycle ride around the rubber plantations around the eastern part of Melaka state. We came across a Python on the roadside by the village of Bukit Lintang. It had a fat old body on it and I saw it's tail in the undergrowth. Estimated length 12 -15 feet. See picture. Sue got closer than I would to the slimy git !.
Sue comes home !
Yet another early start preceeded a tuk tuk to Phnom Penn airport for our just short of two hours flight to Kuala Lumpur.
Two further hours on the coach and we were in the pool of the Majestic Hotel in Melaka. No delays, in fact we arrived earlier than expected !.Our room has a great view of the Malacca Straits (I can't explain the different spelling).
Both of us had spa treatments and went off to check out this truly beautiful old town quite late last night hence the absence of a blog.
Today we had our first lie since our arrival in Thailand.
After breakfast we took a taxi 12 miles west along the coast to the military camp of Terendak in Sungai Udang (Prawn River), Sue's birthplace. One of the photos below shows both of us outside the hospital she first came into the world.
On our return we got a couple of hours by the pool before 'taking tea' with our anti malarials (Taman Negara is coming up fast).
It has just absolutely bucketed down in the last hour (our first rain of the holiday) but has since stopped. We are off on a three hour bike ride this evening and we get another lie in tomorrow.
Monday, 23 March 2015
Wat Sap
Yet another early start to catch the Tonle Sap ferry from Chong Kneas to Phnom Penn. The ferry port is about 10 miles south of our hotel on the great lake. We caught the seven thirty departure which left at eight fifteen. The Tonle Sap is the biggest lake in South East Asia and comprised about half of our eight hour fifteen minute journey time.
As soon as the lake ends and the Tonle Sap river begins at Kampong Chhang we changed boats. Sue and I got up onto the roof and had a relaxing time watching water buffalo and Cambodian river life spread out before us. Finally we have seen the sun! The boat trip was a great experience, well worth it if you can spare the time and better than a coach ride to Phnom Penn on dodgy roads!
We got to the Khmer capital at 4.30pm and checked into our hotel overlooking the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda.
A quick shower as by 5.30pm we were back out on the water for an hour and a half sunset cruise on the Mekong river. You can't come to Cambodia without going on one of the greatest river systems on the planet. We went with Memory Cruises, they were good, with beer, fruit and a guide as part of the cruise. The sunset was beautiful, with a blazing red sun.
We ate some Khmer tapas at 'Friends' restaurant, round the corner from our hotel; it helps disadvantaged youngsters get experience in the catering and hospitality industry. The food and the service were great, I think it's best to book a table if you're able to though as it was very busy and we had to wait 20 minutes to be seated.
Obviously another early start awaits us tomorrow with a 5:45 am wake up call and a flight to Malaysia.
Sunday, 22 March 2015
Wat's up Croc !
An early start. This time 4.30am !. We got a guide and a tuk tuk driver for $58US arranged until 2pm. It was a very worthwhile indulgence. The temples are about 8 miles north of our hotel which is in the very south of Siem Reap town.
We got to Angkor for sunrise at 6am which was special but too cloudy to be spectacular. We explored the temples at Bayon and Ta Prohm. Essentially all you can effectively do in a day before it gets too hot to tolerate Korean girls in disproportionately large hats.
We were in the pool for 2pm back at the hotel and out again at 4.30pm to get to the temple at Phnom Krom for sunset. Once again repeat per Angkor i.e too cloudy!!
Returning via the Cambodian BBQ restaurant where I dined on Crocodile. Obviously I wanted to say "We are in a hurry, make it snappy" but at this restaurant you cook the food yourself so it would not be funny. Not that it would be anyway but....
Tomorrow it's the Tonle Sap boat to Phnom Penn getting up at six, so it's effectively a lie in !.
Saturday, 21 March 2015
Khmer we go !
We had to get up at five this morning to catch the ten past six Cambodia Express from Phayathai station - one stop out from Bangkok station (it's well lit at that time of the morning if you use a flash on your camera)- in many ways the Harrow and Wealdstone to London Euston.
However, the train took (after seven hours) us to Aranya Prathet on the Thai - Cambodia border. We got across scam free (you can see how happy I am crossing the friendship bridge towards the Angkhor gate) and then took the bus to Siem Reap (another four hours).
We arrived at the delightful Rumahmu Hotel at about eight, decided to have dinner on the hotel terrace because we have sunrise at Angkhor Wat tomorrow and sunrise waits for no man. Therefore it's a four thirty wake up call.
Vivi, the hotelier went to a great deal of effort to make our room lovely for our arrival (see pictures).
Until tomorrow evening my fellow without a netters.
Friday, 20 March 2015
Fire up the tuk-tuk
You can't photo the Emerald Buddha and someone who tried to was taken out the back of the temple and shot, so we behaved ourselves.
This was a real touristy day and afterwards we visited the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho (ph does not make an f here !- why, cos it's in thai!). Then we headed back to the hotel for two hours by and in the pool.
We ventured off again to witness sunset from the Sky bar but after getting up to floor 64 we were refused entry on account of my shorts and Sue's flip flops ! (their loss - the drinks were probably extortionately priced).
Tottenham Hotspurned, we headed for the river and caught a ferry to Chinatown where we indulged in sweet and sour stuff for 510B (£10.50) - we have now (Sue has now) re packed for tomorrow's trek to Siem Reap and we are going to get a relaxing massage from across the road.
The bottom picture is the Demon King trying to lift Ian's wages.
Thursday, 19 March 2015
Photos
How nice of The Vie to give us such a great room, the anniversary cake was an added bonus!
Weather forecast for tomorrow is for sunshine and 38°; we'll be out and about doing touristy things before we head off to Cambodia on Saturday. Our rucksacks were surprisingly heavy (!) so a little bit of repacking might be the order of the day otherwise our shoulders will be done in before we even reach Siem Reap.
Sue 😊
Arrived
Wednesday, 18 March 2015
The day has arrived!
After months of planning the date of March 18th has arrived. We spent last night at a hotel near Heathrow because we wanted to start our holiday one day early.
We are heading off to the airport soon because Sue likes airports ??.
This is the maths of the flight. Take off is at five to three, the flight time is eleven hours and fifteen minutes and Bangkok is seven hours ahead of London (and considerably warmer) we are due to land at ten past nine tomorrow morning.
South Africa progress to the World Cup semi finals and that's good because I have £40 on them at 11/4 to win the tournament and Arsenal got dumped out of the Champions League which for a Leeds fan is always great !.
Tuesday, 17 March 2015
Raring to go!
Packed and ready to go ... waiting for lift to the airport, trying out attaching photos! Fingers crossed
Sunday, 15 March 2015
All packed
Monday, 9 March 2015
Excitement building
There is just nine days before we fly to Bangkok on Wednesday afternoon. A practice pack of our rucksacks was performed yesterday and both sacks passed the initial weight test.
We have an upper limit of 20kgs each but have imposed a weight limit of 10kgs each as we will be hauling the rucksacks around in the heat and humidity of South East Asia.
Even 7-8kgs feels heavy and we still have to pack various accessories on top of our practice pack which only included clothes.
It appears that the Taman Negara jungle will be a challenge regarding our clothing. We will need long trousers and long sleeved shirts to combat the threat of leeches !.
The aim is to pack enough for six to seven days then find laundering facilities. This means seeking out laundrettes in Melaka, Ko Lanta and Ko Tao.
One outstanding issue is the visit to Terendak. I tried the Embassy today but my contact had left. I am determined to get it sorted this week.
More later.